“What are the most common issues with the 1968 Corvette’s C2 body style and how can I prevent them?”
A 1968 Corvette is the first year of the C3 generation, not the C2. The C2 (‘63-‘67) is the split-window Sting Ray, while your ‘68 carries the new Coke-bottle shape with hidden wipers and T-tops.
That said, early C3s have a few well-known weak spots:
Birdcage rust: The steel skeleton inside the fiberglass (A-pillars, roof rails, door frames) can rot from the inside. Look for windshield-seal bubbles, damp carpets, or doors that won’t align. Keep drains clear, store the car dry, and if you see any rust starting, cut it out and weld in fresh metal—patch panels are available.
Frame rust just ahead of the rear wheels and the front cross-member: Road salt collects here and can weaken the frame. Inspect with a screwdriver and wire wheel; treat surface rust with converter, and weld in replacement sections if it’s pitted.
Fiberglass stress cracks: Check around door openings, fender lips, and the cowl. Avoid jacking on the body, use proper jack points, and repair cracks early before moisture creeps in.
Door sag: The brass hinge-bushing wears. Replace with bronze or steel bushings and keep the striker adjusted so the door doesn’t pull on the fiberglass.
Vacuum headlight system: Hoses and actuators dry out, so lights may open slowly or stay up. Replace all rubber lines, use a hand pump to test actuators, and keep the vacuum tank sealed.
Regular wash-downs after drives, good storage ventilation, and yearly inspections of the birdcage and frame go a long way toward keeping a ‘68 solid. Want help finding similar C3s or parts suppliers?