1996 Ford F-350 XLT

The 1996 F-350 with the 7.3L Powerstroke is a legendary truck—those engines are famous for going 500k+ miles when maintained! But at 30 years old, there are some specific gremlins to watch for. Here’s what I’d check on this one:

Engine (7.3L Powerstroke):

• Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) – The #1 no-start culprit. Symptoms: sudden stalling, rough running when hot, or the truck just dies without warning. The sensor itself is cheap (~$30) and easy to swap, but it’s engine-out to install on some.

• Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) – The connectors under valve covers burn up or work loose, causing misfires and rough idle. Listen for uneven idle or dead cylinders on cold start.

• High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) o-rings – The oil system that fires the injectors can leak at the HPOP front seal or check valve. Watch for hard hot starts or long cranking.

• Glow Plug Relay – If this truck struggles to start in cold weather but batteries are good, the GPR usually needs replacing. The “Wait to Start” light should stay on 10-30 seconds in cold temps.

• Injector stiction – HEUI injectors can stick when cold; they usually clear up once warm. A quality diesel additive helps.

Transmission (E4OD):

The automatic in ‘96 is decent but the overdrive section is the weak link. On your test drive, feel for harsh 3-4 shifts, torque converter shudder around 45 mph, or OD that won’t engage/disengage. Check the fluid—is it clean and not burnt-smelling? 170k miles means it’s probably due for a service if not already done.

Fuel System:

The fuel tank selector valve is a known failure point—the listing actually has an FAQ about this! Ask the seller if both tanks switch smoothly and if the gauge reads accurately on both. These valves get gummed up or the in-tank pumps fail.

Also check the fuel filter heater element (top of filter housing) for leaks—common source of fuel in the valley.

Chassis & Body (OBS specific):

• Rust – You said it’s lived its whole life in Oklahoma, so that’s excellent! Buuut still check cab corners, rockers, and door bottoms. These OBS trucks rust from the inside out.

• Twin I-Beam suspension – The unique front end wears radius arm bushings and ball joints. Check for wander on the highway or clunking over bumps.

• Frame – That dent in the tailgate from a “trailer hitch bump” makes me wonder about frame stress—give the frame rails a good look, especially near the hitch mount area.

Turbo/Exhaust:

• Up-pipe leaks – You’ll hear a ticking or hissing under boost, and power will feel down. Also, exhaust manifold bolts are notorious for breaking on these.

Age-related stuff (it’s 30 years old!):

• Radiator hoses, fuel lines, vacuum lines—they’re all time bombs now regardless of mileage • The batteries and battery minder are new (great!), but check the cable ends for corrosion • AC system—R-134a conversion? Working well? The listing says it blows cold!

Questions for this specific seller:

Given the FAQs on the listing, I’d specifically ask: • When was the last fuel filter change? (These 7.3s are sensitive to fuel contamination) • Any hard starting issues, hot or cold? • The “weather checking” tires you mention—how old are they? Date codes matter on heavy trucks.

The 7.3 is a tank, but it’s also 30 years old. Budget $1,500-3,000 for “while you’re in there” maintenance even if it checks out clean. Want me to help you find any similar trucks to compare, or dig deeper into valuation data for these OBS Powerstrokes?