Lot 163024: 1998 Land Rover Defender 110 Wagon

Great question! Defenders are notorious for rust, so it’s smart to snoop around. This particular ‘98 was restored in Spain and resprayed in Crystal White, but here’s where you should always check on a Defender 110:

Critical Rust Areas:

1. Bulkhead – The panel behind the engine that everything attaches to. Water loves to collect here, especially around the lower sections. This is the #1 expensive fix on a Defender.

2. Door Hinge Posts & Surrounds – The area around the door hinges catches water and traps it. The FAQ on this listing actually mentions wanting to see photos of the underside of the doors—smart move!

3. Sills & Door Frames – These take a beating from boots and gear, so they scratch easily and rust even faster if not protected. The rear footwells are also prone to collecting muck.

4. Rear Crossmember – You asked about this in the FAQs! The rear chassis crossmember is a notorious rot spot and expensive to replace. Definitely get photos of this area.

5. Chassis/Frame – Check the whole chassis, especially where it meets the body. These were basic steel and love to rust from the inside out. A galvanized chassis swap is a huge plus if it’s been done.

6. Floor Pans & Wheel Arches – Especially the inner rear wheel arches where dirt packs in.

For this specific truck: Since it was restored in Spain, they presumably addressed most of these issues—but as they note, “actual mileage may vary slightly” because they occasionally test-drive their inventory, which tells me this is a driver, not a trailer queen. Definitely ask Car Cave directly for those underside photos you wanted!

Want me to help you find other Defenders in this price range for comparison?